Grjotagja

Grjótagjá

There are several hot springs located in the Myvatn area, some more developed for tourism than others. A commercial hot springs has been recently opened to the public...a blue lagoon of the north, if you will. I found a postcard but elected not to pay the price of admission

Then there's off the beaten path. I was particularly interested in what I had read of Grjótagjá . This mysterious location is along a long fault or fissure. Hidden within are the hot springs. There are several caves to be found, accessed by small openings. In the past, before more recent geothermal activity in the 1980s, the water in the caves was apparently much cooler, making them popular destinations for bathing. They have started to cool again, somewhat.

I inquired about the locations of these caves with the proprietor of the guesthouse. He told me where to find them and that yes, if you have a “thick skin” your can currently bath there, but one must enter gradually or risk severe burns. He also said that one of the caves is less intense than the other. Feeling adventurous, I donned my bathing suit and found my way into the cave. Several signs warned of possible rock fall or spontaneous collapse…and to proceed with caution. It was hot, steamy, sulphurous and dark…not particularly inviting, but I went ahead. I found my way to a small ledge at the edge of the water and tested the surface temperature with my toe…woo! Hot! I found another ledge about the size of a table, submerged about six inches from the surface. I figured the water would be less intense near the surface. So I ventured out on this ledge and found that it moved and shifted easily under my weight! Not the best choice. Finally, I found a small “bay” at the corner of the cave. The water was less intense here and I was able to gradually acclimate (cook) so that it eventually became relatively comfortable.

The darkness, heat, and the requisite adrenaline combined to create a particularly surreal experience. It was quite relaxing. Looking up to the ceiling, the light reflecting from the surface of the water from the cave entrance formed very interesting patterns and effects. This was an experience unlike any I’ve had before…definitely a high point of the trip (even though it was underground).

The quiet was soon broken by a troupe of British Tourists. They all clamored about the entrance of the cave, arguing about the best shot, the best angle and whether or not to go inside …one man came to the conclusion that “one cave was the same as any other…why bother” Then a series of bright flashes went off as each member of the tour recorded their presence. Their ignorance of camera craft was clearly evident in their assumptions that tiny flashes would illuminate the cave sufficiently for decent exposures. No matter, they had made their mark with a click! Soaking in the hot water below, I smugly passed judgment: “…no need to experience first hand if you can take a bad photograph instead.”

Inspired by all this, I decided to make my own photographs of the cave. I raised my dizzy waterlogged body from the spring and went for my camera. Making life as difficult as possible, I decided to use the large format in the cave. It would create an image of the greatest detail and would hopefully capture an image that most closely resembled my experience of being there. I was particularly interested in the subtle reflections of light from the surface of the water onto the ceiling above. Using this camera also meant that these photographs would require the most labor and effort to pull off! Just selecting a location for the tripod was problematic. The legs eventually spanned a location in the cave where the slightest slip would result in some very waterlogged and ruined equipment.

I also hoped to achieve a high depth of field – I wanted the whole cave to appear in focus. This required a long exposure if I wanted to render the texture in the walls in full detail. I took a light meter reading, did my reciprocity calculations and determined that I needed a ½ -hour exposure! I was able to reduce this requirement by positioning the camera differently, which permitted me to open the aperture, letting more light in. I eventually made four exposures within an hour and a half. I was concerned that the moisture would cause my film to buckle and pop within the film holders during the course of the exposure, ruining the images, so I had to wait for the film to acclimate before I shot it, which increased the time. I also had to halt the exposures several times when more tourists came along and lit the cave with the flashes of their little cameras. I did this by holding a dark slide in front of the lens. When I was finished I had many doubts about how the images would turn out. When I eventually processed the film, I was pleasantly surprised.

		Grjótagjá There are several hot springs located in the Myvatn area, some more developed for tourism than others. A commercial hot springs has been recently opened to the public...a blue lagoon of the north, if you will. I found a postcard but elected not to pay the price of admission Then there's off the beaten path. I was particularly interested in what I had read of Grjótagjá . This mysterious location is along a long fault or fissure. Hidden within are the hot springs. There are several caves to be found, accessed by small openings. In the past, before more recent geothermal activity in the 1980s, the water in the caves was apparently much cooler, making them popular destinations for bathing. They have started to cool again, somewhat. I inquired about the locations of these caves with the proprietor of the guesthouse. He told me where to find them and that yes, if you have a “thick skin” your can currently bath there, but one must enter gradually or risk severe burns. He also said that one of the caves is less intense than the other. Feeling adventurous, I donned my bathing suit and found my way into the cave. Several signs warned of possible rock fall or spontaneous collapse…and to proceed with caution. It was hot, steamy, sulphurous and dark…not particularly inviting, but I went ahead. I found my way to a small ledge at the edge of the water and tested the surface temperature with my toe…woo! Hot! I found another ledge about the size of a table, submerged about six inches from the surface. I figured the water would be less intense near the surface. So I ventured out on this ledge and found that it moved and shifted easily under my weight! Not the best choice. Finally, I found a small “bay” at the corner of the cave. The water was less intense here and I was able to gradually acclimate (cook) so that it eventually became relatively comfortable. The darkness, heat, and the requisite adrenaline combined to create a particularly surreal experience. It was quite relaxing. Looking up to the ceiling, the light reflecting from the surface of the water from the cave entrance formed very interesting patterns and effects. This was an experience unlike any I’ve had before…definitely a high point of the trip (even though it was underground). The quiet was soon broken by a troupe of British Tourists. They all clamored about the entrance of the cave, arguing about the best shot, the best angle and whether or not to go inside …one man came to the conclusion that “one cave was the same as any other…why bother” Then a series of bright flashes went off as each member of the tour recorded their presence. Their ignorance of camera craft was clearly evident in their assumptions that tiny flashes would illuminate the cave sufficiently for decent exposures. No matter, they had made their mark with a click! Soaking in the hot water below, I smugly passed judgment: “…no need to experience first hand if you can take a bad photograph instead.” Inspired by all this, I decided to make my own photographs of the cave. I raised my dizzy waterlogged body from the spring and went for my camera. Making life as difficult as possible, I decided to use the large format in the cave. It would create an image of the greatest detail and would hopefully capture an image that most closely resembled my experience of being there. I was particularly interested in the subtle reflections of light from the surface of the water onto the ceiling above. Using this camera also meant that these photographs would require the most labor and effort to pull off! Just selecting a location for the tripod was problematic. The legs eventually spanned a location in the cave where the slightest slip would result in some very waterlogged and ruined equipment. I also hoped to achieve a high depth of field – I wanted the whole cave to appear in focus. This required a long exposure if I wanted to render the texture in the walls in full detail. I took a light meter reading, did my reciprocity calculations and determined that I needed a ½ -hour exposure! I was able to reduce this requirement by positioning the camera differently, which permitted me to open the aperture, letting more light in. I eventually made four exposures within an hour and a half. I was concerned that the moisture would cause my film to buckle and pop within the film holders during the course of the exposure, ruining the images, so I had to wait for the film to acclimate before I shot it, which increased the time. I also had to halt the exposures several times when more tourists came along and lit the cave with the flashes of their little cameras. I did this by holding a dark slide in front of the lens. When I was finished I had many doubts about how the images would turn out. When I eventually processed the film, I was pleasantly surprised.